PinDIY Copyright Infrigement

**** ATTENTION: I am not a lawyer, do not take my advice as legal guidance. I am just a designer who has done this before many times.****

Hey designers, looks like PinDIY is at it again. Here’s what to do if you find that your patterns are listed.

Part I – NameSilo

The owner of PinDIY.com is NameSilo. NameSilo has an abuse form here.

When you fill out the form, this is what to write, you can copy and paste and insert the URLs of your infringed patterns where indicated. If you are NOT the copyright holder, don’t use this language. Send a message to the copyright holder along with a link to this post.

TAKE SCREENSHOTS OF EVERYTHING YOU SEND THEM!

The domain is pindiy.com, you are reporting Copyright Infringement, and you wish to Deactivate the Domain.

I am the copyright owner of the knitting patterns and photos being infringed at:

Insert your URLs here, I numbered mine to keep them straight.

This letter is official notification under the provisions of Section 512(c) of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (“DMCA”) to effect removal of the above-reported infringements. I request that you immediately remove the specified postings and prevent the infringer, who is identified in its web address, from posting the infringing material to your servers in the future. Please be advised that the law requires you, as a service provider, to “expeditiously remove or disable access to” the infringing patterns upon receiving this notice. Noncompliance may result in a loss of immunity for liability under the DMCA.

I have a good faith belief that use of the material in the manner complained of here is not authorized by me, the copyright holder, or the law. The information provided here is accurate to the best of my knowledge. I swear under penalty of perjury that I am the copyright holder.

Please send a prompt response to me at the email address listed below indicating the actions you have taken to resolve these matters.

Sincerely,
Your Name
youremail @ yourdomain.com (remove the spaces)

Once you confirm you’re not a robot and submit it will give you a message saying basically “we may not be able to do anything about this”. Resubmit it anyway. Take Screenshots. Once you’re done it should look like this:

Part II – Cloudflare Hosting

I have received this response from NameSilo, so… not helpful.

btw, that link doesn’t work.

As a result, we should all contact PinDIY’s webhost, Cloudflare. You can find their abuse reporting page here.

You will need the list of your offending URLs again, and just fill out the rest. It’s basically the same as the first form on NameSilo. For the description of the original work I put:

PDF instructions for knitting the specified garment/accessory and photos from the PDF or my original listings on my own site.

Make sure you electronically sign it at the bottom and check the box for “I understand and agree”. I checked both boxes for “forward my report to the hosting provider” and “forward my report to the website owner”

***NOTE: The form will expire if you take too long to fill it out, so you will have to refresh it and re-enter. I suggest keeping your canned response with your URLs in a word processor or google doc so you don’t have to keep gathering them all. You will also know that it’s been submitted with a green banner across the top that confirms your submission. ***

TAKE YOUR SCREENSHOTS!

Part III – App Takedown

I was gonna give you all the instructions for that, but PinDIY’s app seems to already be down on both the Apple Store and the Google Play Store, so yay!

Part IV – AliBaba

More run-around. Cloudflare says they are only a “pass-through security service” and we really need to contact AliBaba. *sigh* So send an email with the same stuff in it as Part I above to intl-abuse@list.alibaba-inc.com

I used the subject line of “DMCA Takedown Request”

Part V – Big Guns

I’ve been in contact with the EFF (Electronic Frontier Foundation) and they referred me to the New Media Rights Organization, which I’ve been talking with about this. We’re gathering info and seeing where we stand. I’ll keep you all posted.

Please do let me know what responses you get. I am working on getting us some big guns, but haven’t heard back yet. I’ll keep y’all posted in my stories and highlights on my Instagram.

<3
M

Colchis Pullover

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Named for the place that Medea and the Golden Fleece hail from, Colchis features a graceful cable up the left front and a boxy, cropped fit through the body. Fitted shoulders keep the sweater from looking oversized.

Yarn: 780 (870, 950, 1040) 1130 1210, 1300, 1380, 1470 yards or 715 (795, 870, 950) 1035 1110, 1190, 1265, 1345 meters of worsted weight yarn. Sample in Mrs Crosby Wardrobe (100% Superwash Merino Wool, 236 yds/100 gms) in ‘Gianni’.

Finished Size: XS (S, M, L) 1X 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X sizes to correspond with 36 (40, 44, 48) 52 56, 60, 64, 68 inch or 90 (100, 110, 120) 130 140, 150, 160, 170 cm finished bust circumference. 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) positive ease preferred

Gauge: 20 sts & 26 rounds = 4 inches (10cm) square in Stockinette after blocking.

Needles: 4.5 mm (US7) or size needed to obtain gauge 24 inch (60cm) circular needles and needles for preferred method for knitting small circumferences – i.e. dpns, magic loop, or 2 circulars. For the larger sizes you may prefer a 32 inch (80cm) circular for the body.

Notions:  7 stitch markers (4 for the decrease points, one for beginning of round, and 2 for chart), cable needle, waste yarn or stitch holders, tapestry needle to weave in ends, supplies for blocking.

Techniques Used:  knit, purl, k2tog, ssk, p2tog, ssp, m1L & m1R, 2 over 2 left cable, 2 over 2 left in purl, 4 over 4 left, 4 over 4 right, use of markers, Short Rows (with tutorial link included).

This sweater instructs you to work the sleeves first (which gives you a good opportunity to double check your gauge before you commit to the full body) to the underarm. The sleeves are set aside and you will begin working the body from the bottom hem. Once the body has reached the underarms, body and sleeves are joined and the Upper Body is worked in a raglan style. Finally the saddle shoulder tabs and worked and at the same time the front neck is shaped with short rows, then a garter stitch edging is worked to finish off the collar.

  • Shown in Size Medium on 37 inch (94cm) bust.
  • You can use any Short Row Method you want so I have abbreviated WSR for Work Short Row. For instance, if you are using the Wrap & Turn method, WSR is the stitch you would wrap. If you are using the Shadow Wrap method, WSR would be your doubled stitch. Just remember that on following rows you will need to treat your SRS (Short Row Stitch) according to your chosen short row method. For instance, with wrap & turn you would knit your wrap and your wrapped stitch together. For a tutorial on Shadow Wrap Short Rows, view tutorial here: http://youtu.be/KBFxyDNUraY

This pattern also has a Table to help you keep track of the upper body decreases, you can see it and a tutorial of how to use it here: https://youtu.be/8Q-YjuHh2b0

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Rysy Shawl

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Named for a peak in the Carpathian Range, this piece plays with repeating shapes created with short rows, contrasting the strong triangular shape with the organic and flowing shape made as they stagger and stack.

Yarn: 625 yards (572 m) of sport weight yarn. Sample shown in Mrs Crosby Hat Box (75% Merino/15% Silk/10% Cashmere; 317 yards/100 g skein) in ‘Baltic Amber’.

Finished Size: 66 inches (167.75cm) wide and 18 inches (45.75 cm) across the widest wedge.

Gauge: 21 sts and 40 rows in 4 inches (10 cm) square in garter stitch after blocking.

Needles: 24 inch (60 cm) circular needle, 4mm (US6) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions:  tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Techniques Used:  knit, yarnover, slip as if to purl with yarn in front, k2tog, Short Rows (German method, with instructions included)

Pattern is written, no charts.

  • For this piece, I prefer a German Short Row (see next note). If you prefer to substitute another method, just remember that you need to turn your work after working the short row (WSR). For the German Method the turn is incorporated into working the SRS. For the German method the resolve is just to knit the SRS parts together as one. If you swap another method, it can help to use a pin-style marker to visually remind you where the previous SRS is.
  • WSR: knit the next stitch (this will be the SRS), turn your work, your working yarn should be in front, slip the last stitch to the Right Hand needle as if to purl so it doesn’t change its orientation, lift the working yarn, doubling the stitch, and move your yarn to the back of the work ready to work a knit stitch.
  • Bind offs should be worked as follows: sl1 wyif, (k1, pass first stitch over second stitch and off needle) and repeat. That slipped stitch still counts as a bound-off stitch.

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Antistrophe Shawl

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A simple and easy-to-work half double crochet body shines when edged with an intricate lace edging. Work it in a single yarn, or work the edging in a contrasting color. Based on the Dalliance Shawl (a knit/crochet hybrid design), this all-crochet version is for crochet-lovers everywhere.

Yarn: 800 yards total of Fingering Weight yarn. Shown in Cloudborn Fibers Merino Superwash Sock Twist (80% Superwash Merino Wool/20% Polyamide, 467 yds per 100g) in Magenta.

Finished Size: 62 inches (157.5cm) across the wingspan, 29 inches (73.7 cm) from neck to bottom point.

Gauge: 16 sts & 18 rows = 4 inches (10cm) in half double crochet after blocking.

Hook: 4mm (US G/6) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions:  tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Techniques Used:  knit, purl, yarnover, double yarnover, k2tog, ssk, kyokb

Pattern is both written and charted.

  • To adjust the size of the shawl, add or subtract repeats of Body Row 2 in increments of 5 (e.g. 114 times instead of 109. Each repeat of 5 rows will all/remove one repeat of the border on each side of the shawl. Yardages for body and border will both change.

If you are interested in hybrid knit/crochet designs, check out the column Miriam co-authors for knitty.com called Plays Well Together.

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Latona Shawl

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Named for Latona, the Titan mother of Apollo and Diana, this shawl is designed to be knit until you run out of yarn. The subtle crescent shape and asymmetry make it an ever-changing piece to wear and the stripes of lattice lace make it fun to knit.

Yarn: 356 {712} yards (325 {650} m of heavy fingering weight yarn. Sample shown in Spirit Trail Fiberworks Sunna (75% Superwash Merino/15% Cashmere/10% Silk; 356 yards/110 g skein) in ‘2018 Club Colorweigh’. 

Finished Size: Small: 32 inches (81.25cm) along bind off edge, 58 inches (147.25cm) along wingspan edge. 
Large: 46 inches (116.75cm) along bind off edge, 82 inches (208.25cm) along wingspan edge. 

Gauge: 21 sts and 38 rows in 4 inches (10 cm) square in garter stitch after blocking. 

Needles: 24 inch (60 cm) circular needle, 4mm (US6) or size needed to obtain gauge. 

Notions:  1 safety pin style marker for marking RS of work, tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Techniques Used:  knit, purl, yarnover, double yarnover, k2tog, ssk, kyokb

Pattern is both written and charted.

    • In the text translations of the charts, repeats are marked by bolded text in parentheses. On the charts, repeats are marked by red vertical lines. Each repeat of the Chart will increase the number of repeats by 4. Beginning with Row 9, every RS row increases 1 stitch.

 

    • Bind off as follows: sl1 wyif, (k1, pass first

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Kilter Shawl

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Building diagonally from corner to corner, this geometric wrap creates diamonds when knit, but squares when it’s blocked. The visual illusion made by the lines outside the squares means they’re not precisely true… hence the name.

Yarn: 550 yards total of Fingering Weight yarn. Shown in Anzula Luxury Fibers Serenity (100% Cashmere), +/-185 yds per 50g) in ‘Vixen’. 

Finished Size: 15 inches (38cm) wide, 59 inches (150 cm) long. 

Gauge: 18 sts & 32 rows = 4 inches (10cm) in stockinette after aggressive blocking.

Needle: 4mm (US6) needles for flat knitting or size needed to obtain gauge. 

Notions: tapestry needle for weaving in ends, 2 on-needle type stitch markers, 1 pin-style marker (see notes), scale (optional), and blocking wires and pins.

Techniques Used:  knit, purl, slipped stitches with yarn in front, k2tog, k3tog, yarnover, ssk, sssk, k5tog, knit front & back, sl1 k2tog psso, use of markers.

Pattern is both written and charted.

  • This shawl is constructed from corner to corner, knitted on the bias. Charts 1,2, and halfway through 3 increase the first point. Chart 4 repeats create the body of the shawl. Charts 5 & 6 decrease the final point.
  • In order to get the most out of your yarn, you should reserve 20 grams (or 75 yards) of the yarn for the final point. This number has a bit of padding, but your yardage may vary. If you are substituting yarn, you should measure by yardage, not weight.
  • To measure the required reserved yardage, I recommend measuring or weighing your yarn from the opposite end of the final ball you intend to use (i.e., I would use the inside of a center-pull ball since I like to pull my working yarn from the outside of the ball). Once you’ve measured, mark that point with a slip knot, and then slide a pin-style stitch marker through the slip knot to keep it from coming undone. Begin knitting with this final ball, and once you reach the slipknot, it’s time to begin the final decreases.

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Introducing YarnStories Podcast

Hi everyone, 

I’ve been busy and realized that I haven’t posted here about what I’m doing. I’ve been posting to Social Media a lot, but hadn’t posted about it here. The long and short of it is that I’ve started a podcast! 

I’m really proud of it and I’d love it if you give a listen. It’s called YarnStories and it is kind of like the slow-food movement but for yarn and fiber. The first season is almost done, and I’m getting ready to launch a Patreon to help support it, but that just means that you should have plenty to listen to :). The standard episode format is that I talk to a yarn or fiber producer about their business and about their path, and then talk to a fiber, spinning, or mill expert about an aspect of the producer interview. It’s really fun and I love getting different perspectives on the same industry. 

You can start at the Introduction to get a feel for what I’m doing, and go to town with the rest of the 13 available episodes. There will be 3 more episodes before I take a break to get more content. You can subscribe to the RSS feed or subscribe via your favorite podcatcher, and it’s available on iTunesStitcher and Google Play. You can like and follow the podcast on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. You can also join the Friends of YarnStories Ravelry group if that’s more your thing. And thank you so much for listening!

<3/

Miriam

Turbulent Wake Shawl

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Worked from the small point, with rows of increasing length, this shawl is an easy asymmetrical triangle with a beautiful edging that evokes the swirls and curls of the vortexes that form behind a moving ship.

Yarn: 560 yards of fingering weight yarn. Shown in Apple Tree Knits Plush Fingering – Gradient (100% Superwash merino wool), 560 yds per 4 oz or 512m per 113 g) in ‘Firefly’.

Finished Size: 65 inches (165 cm) across wingspan (increase edge), 30 inches (76 cm) across last row (short edge)

Gauge: 7 dc clusters & 7 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in dc cluster mesh after blocking (see notes for swatch instructions).

Hook: 5mm (H-8) hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: tapestry needle for weaving in ends, locking pinstyle stitch marker.

Techniques Used:  magic ring: see notes, double crochet, double crochet cluster, chain, slip stitch

Pattern is both written and charted.

  • This pattern is written to get the most out of your yarn. Just finish a row when you’re getting to the end of your yardage (or rip back to where you finished a row), and follow the “Finishing” instruction.
  • Once you get the first few rows established, use a pin-style marker to mark the RS of the work. Keep moving it up as your shawl grows so you can keep track of which row you’re on.
  • You can easily count how many rows you have worked by counting the number of 7-dc groups on your shawl.
  • Magic Ring should be worked as follows: make a loop in your yarn a few inches from the end and pinch the overlap where the two parts cross between forefinger and thumb. Make sure the loop is situated so that your working yarn is hanging to the right. Insert your hook into the loop and pull up the working yarn, yarnover and pull through existing loop (this will count as the first chain in your ch 5). For video of this technique visit: https://youtu.be/ayRS0_LgQAs

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It’s also available on Craftsy 🙂

Isadora Boot Topper and Mitts Set

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Named for modern dance pioneer and famous bohemian Isadora Duncan, this boot topper and mitts set shows off your free spirit. The unique scallop edging shines on the lace edge of the boot toppers and the cuff edge of the mitts. Both pieces feature a delicate medallion lace pattern.

Gauges: 20 stitches & 30 rounds per 4 inches (10cm) square in stockinette after blocking. Mitt Chart = 2 inches (5cm) wide after blocking.

Needles: 4.5mm (US 7) needle(s), or size needed to obtain gauge, in your preferred method for small circumference knitting (dpns, two circulars, or magic loop).

Notions: Stitch markers (2 on-the-needle style to mark the thumb and 1 pin-style hanging marker for BOR), holders or waste yarn for thumb stitches, tapestry needle to weave in ends, supplies for blocking.

Techniques Used: knit, purl, k2tog, k3tog, ssk, sssk, yarnover, double yarnover, make 1 Left and Right, working multiple stitches into a single stitch, quad dec, sl1 k2tog psso, central double decrease, knitting through the back loop, slipping stitches as if to purl, knit front and back, use of markers.

Boot Toppers

Yarn: 145[170, 195] yards (133[156, 179]m) of worsted weight yarn. Shown in Mrs. Crosby Harbor (100% Bluefaced Leicester Wool, 215 yds (196m)/100 g) in ‘Tempest’.

Finished Sizes: To fit up to 12[14, 16] inch (30.5[35.5, 40.5]cm) calf circumference. If you plan to wear them lower on your calf instead of up around the largest part, use that measurement to choose your size. Negative ease is built in to the pattern.

Mitts

Yarn: 95[110, 125] yards (87[101, 115]m) of worsted weight yarn. Shown in Mrs. Crosby Harbor (100% Bluefaced Leicester Wool, 215 yds (196m)/100 g) in ‘Tempest’.

Finished Sizes: To fit 6[7, 8] inch (15[18, 20.5]cm) hand circumference measured around palm above thumb. Negative ease is built in to the pattern.

Pattern is charted, but translations of the charts are also given for those who prefer written out instructions.

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It’s also available on Craftsy 🙂

Bird & Bee Shawl

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Replete with graceful wing shapes, the Bird & Bee Shawl features a purl lice stitch in the solid sections and a honeycomb lace in short-row sections that help shape the curves. The crescent shape of the wings lets the shawl hang beautifully around the shoulders and neck no matter how you wear it.

Yarn: 430 yards (393m) of fingering weight yarn. Shown in Dragonfly Fibers Pixie (100% Superwash Merino Wool, 430 yds (393m)/4 oz) in ‘Timberwolf’.

Gauge: 20 sts & 33 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) square in purl lice after blocking. 

Needles: 32-inch (80-cm) length circular needles in 4mm (US6) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Crochet hook, waste yarn for provisional cast-on, stitch markers (2 on-needle style & 1 hanging pin-style), tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Finished Size: 68 inches (173cm) along inner edge of crescent, 13 inches (33cm) from nape to bottom point, 9 inches (22.5cm) wide at the midpoint of each wing.

Techniques Used: knit, purl, k2tog, ssk, slipped stitched with yarn in front and yarn in back, yarnover, double yarnover, elongated knit stitches (with instructions), short rows (I use shadow wrap method and include tutorial links), use of markers.

 

This shawl begins with a garter tab (tutorial video for this can be found here. The numbers will vary, but the technique is the same). Increases at both ends every row, and in the middle on RS rows, shape the upper body of the shawl. The lace section is worked in two parts with short rows (I recommend either the shadow wrap method or the German short row technique), first to the right side of center, then to the left. The final chart has you working the full width of the shawl, creating a garter and slipped stitch edging.

Pattern is charted, but translations of the charts are also given for those who prefer written out instructions.

The garter stitch edging is worked with elongated stitches on each RS row to accommodate the quick increases of this shawl. These double wrapped knits should become single stitches on the next WS row by knitting into one loop, and dropping the remaining loop off the needle, unworked.

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It’s also available on Craftsy 🙂