Monthly Sale: Andromeda Shawl

Hey everyone! In the coming months I’m trying to do more promotion of my back catalog patterns. You’ll see some oldies but goodies pop up in the blog, and every month an older pattern will be on sale. If you’d like to be notified of the sale every month you can sign up for the Knitter’s Newsletter.


For the month of August, the sale pattern is the Andromeda Shawl. To get the pattern at 15% off, just purchase it before the end of the month! The discount will be taken off during checkout.

Purchase the pdf file now through Ravelry (you don’t have to be a Ravelry member to purchase)
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andromedag2

This top-down shawl plays with movement of stitches, having both subtle curving motion and clean decrease lines. The tessellating wave motif shifts and increases like ripples in a pond. The uneven picot edging speaks of waves crashing against the shore. Check out all the great finished versions on Ravelry! My favorite is this one knit by lulabellebird in a gradient yarn!

andromeda8

Gauge: 22 sts and 24 rows over 4” in pattern after blocking.
Finished Measurements: 52 inches (132 cm) across the top and 26 inches (66 cm) from neck to point.
Yarn Requirements: 750 yards of fingering weight yarn. Sample shown in Impulse of Delight Bluefaced Bliss in ‘Blue Skies’ and ‘Lost Lake’
Needle Size: 3.5mm (US 5) 24-30 inch circular needle or size needed to obtain gauge
Pattern Includes: charts and text translations of charts
Stitches Used: knit, purl, k2tog, yo, ssk, slipped stitches, knit front & back, p2tog, p3tog, (k1, p1, k1) in 1 st, sl1 k2tog psso.
Other Details: This shawl is worked beginning with a provisional cast on, and one side worked out. Then the provisional cast on is removed and the live stitches are used to knit the second side.

andromedag4

Tips for Colorwork

I’m gearing up to release my new colorwork collection next week and I thought now would be a good time for some tips for colorwork (which umbrella includes stranded colorwork like Fair Isle and Latvian knitting, intarsia, and more).

  • Let’s start at the beginning: You will probably need to swatch, swatching flat is probably something you’ve done before, but if the project is knit in the round (like Metamerism and Chromaticity), then you will want to swatch in the round. Check out this great post from Hunter Hammersen on the WhipUp blog! Just sub your colorwork chart for the twisted rib she works in the example, and you’re set.
  • In stranded colorwork “floats” are the bits of the color you’re not currently using that carry across the back of the work. This post from Knitty is great for how to keep them loose and even, and how to catch them up and keep them in place for segments longer than 5 or 7 stitches.
  • eta: Carina Spencer posted a video on Instagram of the way she catches floats (on the following row), which seems ideal for sections with long-floats between motifs!
  • Yarn Dominance = which color appears as foreground vs. background on your knitting. And it all hinges on which strand is on top and which underneath. You can read about yarn dominance and why it’s important here. There’s also a nice article put a slightly different way here.
  • If you have trouble keeping your floats long enough to not pull the stitches, you should consider knitting colorwork inside out, you don’t have to reverse anything, just knit around the INSIDE of your tube instead of the outside. the fact that your floats are carrying across the OUTSIDE of your tube rather than the INSIDE can make a difference in their tension when you flip the whole thing right side out. Check out how to do it in the YouTube tutorial below from Melissa B.
  • Here’s a great video on how to change colors when working Intarsia in Garter Stitch — from lissaplus3.
  • When choosing colors for a stranded project, you need your colors to have sufficient contrast to show clearly. Your cell phone can help tell you if the colors have enough contrast between colors.
  • For part of Metamerism, you carry on colorwork on the front and back, but not on the sleeves (all while working in the round). To avoid having a million ends to weave in, try using Julia Farwell-Clay’s great tutorial.

Summer Pattern Sale

When you run a brick and mortar store, you HAVE to have sales to clear out inventory and make some room, but without a physical product i sometimes forget to thank you all for your support from time to time. Its been a really long time since we last did this, so here goes! Now through July 17 get 25% off everything in my Ravelry Store, including collections!

I’m metaphorically clearing the decks for the new Modern Colorwork Collection I’ll be releasing later this month. It feels like forever since I’ve released something new…even though I know it hasn’t been forever. There was my collection with Manos del Uruguay released in Feb, but that still seems like a long time.

Anyhow, enjoy the sale! And spread the word!

Thanks,
Miriam

Special Techniques for Getting the Most From Your Ball of Yarn

The following is an excerpt from Twist & Knit:

RedDigitalScaleTo get the most knitted fabric from your yarn, there are a few techniques with which you will need to become familiar. The first is how to weigh your yarn. Some patterns in this book require that you split your yarn in half. For some items (such as the Porifera socks or Gable Mitts), you can work from both ends of a center pull ball at once. But for a piece like Vinca, its beneficial to have two separate balls, each with half of the yarn when you split for the wings. To do this, when you reach the point in the pattern where you need to split your yarn, weigh the full ball and record how much yarn you have total. Place your scale on the floor by your ball-winder and begin winding, keeping the digital scale on. The scale will read less and less as you wind off yarn from the full ball.

When the scale reads half of the total yarn weight, mark that point in your yarn (a slip knot with a bobby pin or paper clip through the loop works really well). Remove the ball from the ball winder and weigh both balls separately to make sure that they are equal. If not wind a few yards from the larger ball to the smaller and weigh again. When you’re satisfied you’ve got two equal balls, break the yarn and continue with the pattern as instructed.

Another technique that will become invaluable is how to measure how much yarn you are using per row or round. Once you’ve finished a row/round, measure off a yard of yarn from the piece. Tie a slip knot at this point and and put something through the loop of the slip knot (like a safety pin, or bobby pin). This keeps the slip knot from becoming unknotted as you tension the yarn. Work 1 row/round. Measure how far from your knitting to the slip knot. Subtract that distance from the 1 yard you measured, and you have determined how much yarn you used in a round.

If you reach the slip knot before finishing the row/round, remove the slip knot, finish the row/round, and start the process again, but this time, measure off two or three yards before the slip knot and knit a row/round and measure how much you have left.

Most of the pieces in Twist & Knit require you to leave a certain length of yarn in reserve for the bind off (i.e. 4 rows worth of yarn). This is when it becomes essential to know how much yarn you use per row/round. Also, if you need to finish your knitting on a certain row of the chart to complete a repeat, then you can determine if you have enough yarn left to finish another repeat by using this method and measuring how much yarn is left in the ball.

Pebbles Dress

In just under the wire for April, but I finished another dress today!

Pebble Dress

The pattern is Butterick 5639 (View C). The fabric is Valori Wells Pebbles in the Linen Cotton blend. I made a muslin (thanks to the Couture Dress Class), adjusted the bust fit, raised the neckline, and tweaked a bunch of stuff. I also did some nice finishing on the inside by encasing the seams in a bias binding from the same bodice lining material which is Kona cotton in ‘Cocoa’.

Inside front of Pebble Dress

I’m really happy with it. The fabric was pretty sturdy stuff, so I didn’t feel like the bias binding was adding too much bulk, and it really does give a lovely finish. The zipper insertion went well, thanks to a quick refresher from a free Craftsy class.

I can see this being a summer staple for sure.

Tweed Story: A Documentary about Harris Tweed

Attention, all wool lovers! Don’t miss out on the great documentary from BBC on the decline and the rise of Harris Tweed. Parts 1, 2, & 3.

The Virtue & Shaming of the Green Movement

I have been making changes in the way I live.

I am making my own clothing, I am cooking food from scratch and eating more whole grain, I’m cooking meatless at least twice a week (although this is mostly a reactionary measure since so many heart & cholesterol problems have cropped up in my immediate family), and I’m growing the majority of my food during the half year that I can.

Hexagon Patchwork Coasters

Patchwork coasters make tea-time prettier.

I have many reasons for doing these things. I love Making. I love the act of creating something, knowing it has a purpose and putting my thought and love into it. It’s alchemy, and it’s magical. It’s a transformation, and when I stopped believing in God and religion, I think I needed something that had a sense of magic to it. Without magic the world is boring. I make because I want to be healthier. I make because I want to waste less. I make because I want to live longer and live happier and be surrounded by useful things that are also beautiful instead of useful (and useless) things made to be disposable.

I also feel privileged that I’m at a place in my life where I CAN make things. Making things isn’t cheap. Many companies sell their products for less than it costs to make them. And making things WELL is never cheap either. I could buy a cheap polyester fabric to sew a dress, but I know that in the long run it will hold up, and be more comfortable, and get much more use if I use a well made cotton fabric. Also, polyester is made from petroleum products, of which there is a finite amount on this planet. My cotton dress, when it’s all worn out, can be composed back to the earth where it can fertilize more cotton. It’s not using up a finite material like polyester is. It also means one less dress made by an underfed, overworked teenage girl working in a dangerous building in Bangladesh. Also, duh. Cotton feels better 🙂

Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes in my garden

I try to eat locally grown foods because, quite frankly, they taste better. They are harvested when they should be (and not before), brought more quickly to me, and I can cook them before they would even have made it to my supermarket if they were coming from somewhere else. It also has the added benefit of using fewer petroleum products to get to me (again… finite resources). The money I pay for my local produce (which is admittedly more than I would pay if I shopped sales and bought stuff from the grocery store), stays in my community and helps support the shops I love, my friends and neighbors, and keeps food growing close. Which will come in handy in the case of a zombie apocalypse or the End Of The World.

I am incredibly lucky that I have the flexibility in my income to do this. I have been at a place in my life where I wanted to buy produce, but could only buy pasta and canned sauce because I had to stretch a food budget. I know what that is like. That’s why I get so angry about shit like this. If you don’t want to bother reading the link, it’s a 10-step list of how to turn regular recipes into REAL FOOD recipes. “REAL FOOD” being less processed, more natural, etc… While I have nothing against this idea (and work really hard to avoid processed foods in my life), the tone of this completely blows me away. It’s written in such a way that if you aren’t already doing all this “REAL FOOD” eating, then you should be ashamed of yourself. Any time something is laid out so Black & White I get nervous. How many times were we told “butter is bad for you”, and then we were told “butter is good for you”, and then we were told “butter in moderation”. Life is a journey of discovery. If you feel bad when you eat lots of butter, then forget the article you read that says to eat lots of butter and eat whatever the hell you want! A lot of people are helped by fish oil supplements, but they make me vomit everything I ever ate. So I won’t be taking Fish Oil, thanks. You have to use your own common sense and listen to your own body.

3/4 sleeve brown tee

A tee I made… probably the best tee I own!

I’ve got very solid reasons for the changes I’m making in my life, and I don’t always live up to my own expectations. I love air travel, and like to visit people in other places, so I buy plane tickets and I’m not willing to give that up, despite how many finite resources it uses. But the things that are right for me are not necessarily right for you. Get informed. If you know how twinkies are made and what goes into them and still want to eat them, that’s your own damn business. If you understand the supply chain and peripheral consequences that go into that $5 tank top, and you still want to buy it, go for it! And there are trade offs, nothing is wholely RIGHT or wholely WRONG. By not buying clothing made cheaply in less-than-stellar working conditions, I am making those dollars unavailable to support third world growth and a global economy. I get that. But when weighing the fraction of my dollar that will actually go to third world growth (and the corresponding larger portion of that dollar that goes to big-business profiteers) vs. the majority of my dollar that goes to a local artisan, the choice seems pretty clear to me.

I’d love to hear what you all have to say about it. Please feel free to comment and we can carry the discussion on there.

M

p.s. Discussing this a few days ago with Ysolda led both of us to post about it. Her post has a much more interesting details about the supply chains and industry models than mine, so go read it!

Reading: Citizens by Simon Schama

2013-04-23 09.22.14I’ve been reading my way back through Game of Thrones, alternating with a bit of Dresden Files for good measure, but realized it’s been far too long since I had some non-fiction on my reading docket. So I pulled out a book I had started, but never finished… Citizens: A Chronicle of the French Revolution by Simon Schama.

I bought the book for a couple of bucks at a library surplus book sale, and didn’t realize until later that it was written by Simon Schama. I’ve been a fan of Schama since his History of Britain documentary series (thanks to Annie‘s recommendation). His style of weaving history together with the popular current events of the times (including news stories of the day that would have influenced the key people, or what their peers wrote about them in correspondence) makes the whole thing come alive. It’s like watching an intricate screenplay rather than reading dull, dry historical facts.

Right now I’m reading about the economic factors that led to the French Revolution. It’s a testament to Schama’s writing that I’m enjoying it enough to shun the fiction on my reading list and considering schlepping the rather weighty book along with me on the train.

Make Before Buy

Thanks, everyone, for your input on my informal learning survey! If you haven’t seen it yet, please consider taking a few minutes to answer the questions here.

MuseumTunicI’ve been working this year on making more than I buy. There are many posts or articles out there railing against consumerism, and I don’t want to reinvent the wheel, so I won’t go over all the reasons I want to be less consumerist here. But for me, at this point in my life, I realized that I have the skills, the desire, and the resources to be able to make a greater portion of my life. The sweatshop fire in Dhaka late last year basically pushed me over the edge and I decided to put my money where my heart is.

I’m finding that I have a lower tolerance for ill-fitting and cheaply made things now that I understand the work that should go into them. It takes an extra minute to run a second stitching line around a pocket to reinforce the seam, but it makes a world of difference to the usability of the finished piece.

While I’m still a little scared of making a well-fitting woven dress (and taking The Couture Dress class on Craftsy to combat the fear with a wealth of information and experience), I’ve been making lots of knit clothing and woven fabric stuff that doesn’t require a lot of tailoring. And I’ve scheduled myself some sewing time every week to ensure that I squeeze it in.

Last week I made the dress in the photo up top, which is a Museum Tunic in some Anna Maria Horner Voile called “Pastry Line”, and I also made a quick fold-top knit skirt from some super discounted stripey knit fabric I got on a recent trip to So. Cal. This week I’m spending some time making muslins for a couple woven fabric dresses to make sure they fit properly. I also had a great conversation with Lizzy House about her plan to have a closet full of her handmade clothing. And I’m hoping that A Verb For Keeping Warm does another summer of Seam Allowance so I can join in remotely and get some support in this process.

<3 M

Colors of the Past: Vieux Rose, Reseda & Eau de Nil

I was looking for old color names like “Heliotrope” and “Eau de Nil” when I found this lovely little tidbit of history! It’s an add for Filmy Dress Fabrics from a New Zealand newspaper from September 1909. I wish I could order some of these fabrics!